Is it safe to visit the Danakil Depression right now?

The Danakil Depression is one of the most extraordinary landscapes on Earth, and one to plan for when travel there reopens. For now, it isn't a trip to plan: travel to the Afar region isn't advised right now. The good news is that the restrictions are in the north. Addis Ababa, Bishoftu, Hawassa and the south are open and busy with ordinary life, and you can still see volcanic crater lakes on an easy day out from the capital. Here is what makes the Danakil special, what to look for before you plan it in future, and what to do instead on this trip.

What is the Danakil Depression?

The Danakil is a low desert basin in the north of Ethiopia's Afar region, close to the border with Eritrea. Parts of it lie more than 100 metres below sea level, average daily highs are above 40°C, and it is often described as the hottest inhabited place on Earth. The Afar people have lived there for centuries.

Visitors came for three things. Dallol, a hydrothermal field of acid pools and yellow, green and white mineral crusts. The salt flats, where Afar workers cut salt blocks by hand and load them onto camels. And Erta Ale, an active shield volcano famous for a lava lake that has been present, in some form, since at least 1906. It is usually climbed at night from a base camp.

Why is the Danakil on hold right now?

Two reasons, briefly. There is conflict in parts of the north, including Afar and neighbouring Tigray, and the usual gateways are closed to visitors. Danakil trips have traditionally started from Mekelle in Tigray or from Semera, the Afar regional capital. Civilian flights to Tigray were suspended on 22 September (Ethiopian Airlines says Mekelle flights restart on 11 October), and foreign nationals currently cannot use airports in Afar. Until the advice changes, there is no sensible way in.

What should a future Danakil trip involve?

When the official advice for Afar clearly eases, the Danakil will be worth planning properly. It has always been a remote, demanding trip, run as an organised tour rather than something you do on your own. A few things to line up:

1. Flights that are running. Check that flights to Mekelle or Semera operate and that foreign visitors can use them.
2. A reputable, experienced operator. Danakil trips have normally run with an experienced guide and official security arrangements. Ask exactly what is included.
3. Insurance with evacuation cover. Medical services in the area are extremely limited, so make sure your policy covers local treatment and evacuation.
4. Fitness for the heat. Dehydration and heatstroke are real risks, and the Erta Ale hike is done in the dark over rough lava.
5. Fuel and communications. Fuel can be short across Ethiopia and phone and internet signals can drop, so plan with some slack.

We are a driver service, not a tour company, so we don't run Danakil trips. We will update this page when the advice for Afar changes.

What can you do instead on this trip?

Plenty, and much of it is easy. Ethiopia's calm, everyday side is right where most visitors land: Addis Ababa, with its coffee, food, museums and markets, and the lakes and towns to the south. If volcanic scenery is what drew you to the Danakil, start with Bishoftu.

Bishoftu's volcanic crater lakes

Bishoftu is a lake town a short drive south-east of Addis Ababa along the expressway. Its lakes fill old volcanic craters, several with steep rims and resorts or lodges on the edge, so you can have lunch looking straight down to the water. Add a walk on a crater rim, some birdwatching, and you are back in Addis in daylight. It also works as a quiet resort night at the start or end of a trip.

Hawassa and the Rift Valley

Further south, Hawassa sits on a Rift Valley lake and makes a good trip of a night or two. We drive to Hawassa and other southern cities regularly, so we can tell you how the road looks before you decide.

A full day in Addis Ababa

The capital itself deserves a day or two: the National Museum, where you can see a replica of the famous Lucy skeleton, Holy Trinity Cathedral and Unity Park, the Adwa Victory Memorial in Piassa, the forested hills of Entoto, and Merkato, one of Africa's biggest open-air markets. With a driver by the day, the car waits at each stop and takes you on to the next.

How do we look after you on the road?

Travelling with a trusted local driver makes the whole trip easier. In the city, your driver drops you at the door and waits, so you are never flagging taxis on the street or walking dark streets, and we help you avoid the usual pickpocket hotspots, scams and overcharging you find in any capital.

Before every trip outside Addis, we do our own security check using reports from our drivers across the country. Then we talk it through with you and decide together on the best plan: the route, a reroute if needed, what time to leave, and when not to travel. We look after you inside the city and outside it.