Wear modest clothes in layers. Long trousers or a knee-length or longer skirt, tops with sleeves, a warm layer for the evening and a scarf for church visits will cover almost every situation in Addis Ababa. Ethiopia is a religious, fairly conservative country, and the capital is a high-altitude city where evenings are chilly for much of the year.

Dressing conservatively and respecting local customs is the simple rule, especially for women and especially at religious sites. None of this means you need special clothing. It means covering a bit more than you might on a beach holiday. And with a private car it is easy to carry a spare layer and a scarf: leave them in the car and pick them up before each church or viewpoint.

What do people wear in Addis Ababa?

In the capital, plenty of people dress in a Western style, and jeans, chinos, long skirts, T-shirts and casual shirts are all normal. Attitudes are changing, especially in Addis, but it still pays to dress in keeping with local sensibilities. A clean, tidy look fits in better than hiking gear.

The things that stand out are shorts, very short skirts, sleeveless tops and men going shirtless. Shorts and sleeveless tops are not really acceptable, especially in rural and Muslim areas, and going shirtless is unacceptable for men. Trousers are fine for women, particularly in Addis.

• Good everyday choices: jeans or light trousers, knee-length or longer skirts and dresses, T-shirts with sleeves, a light shirt.
• Leave for the hotel or a private pool: short shorts, crop tops, strappy vests.
• Shoes: comfortable closed shoes for uneven pavements and rainy-season mud, plus something easy to slip off for church visits.

How cold does it get in Addis Ababa?

Colder than many visitors expect. Addis sits on the highland plateau at about 2,350 m above sea level, rising to over 3,000 m in the Entoto hills to the north. Long-term averages put daytime highs at roughly 21–26°C through the year, while nights typically drop to around 8–13°C, and lower on the coldest dry-season nights between November and January.

The long rainy season runs from June to about mid-September, with July and August the wettest months. Days then are grey, damp and cooler, so a waterproof jacket and shoes that cope with puddles are worth packing. There is also a lighter rainy spell from about February to May.

The sun is stronger than the temperature suggests at this altitude, so a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen make sense even on a cool, breezy day.

What should you wear to an Ethiopian Orthodox church?

Orthodox churches are active places of worship, not just monuments, and the dress norms are clear and easy to follow:

1. Cover shoulders and knees. Long trousers for men; a long skirt, dress or loose trousers for women. Avoid tight or see-through clothing.
2. Women cover their hair. Many Ethiopian women wear a netela, a light, handmade white cotton shawl, with a traditional dress. A plain scarf works for visitors.
3. Shoes off at the door. Shoes must come off before entering any church, and socks are fine. Wear shoes you can slip on and off easily.
4. Ask before you enter. Get permission before visiting churches and mosques. Follow any instructions at the gate, and otherwise do what local worshippers do.

Where a church has separate entrances for men and women, visitors are expected to use the right one. During major festivals, crowds of worshippers dressed in white are part of the spectacle. You don't need to wear white yourself, but modest, muted clothing helps you blend in. If you are visiting several churches in a day, a driver by the day drops you at each gate and waits, so you can change shoes or grab a scarf from the car. Our guides to Holy Trinity Cathedral and Orthodox fasting cover what to expect in more detail.

What should you wear to visit a mosque?

Ethiopia is religiously diverse and largely tolerant, and the same principle applies at mosques: loose, long clothing for everyone, with arms and legs covered. Women should bring a scarf to cover their hair. Shoes come off before the prayer hall, and it is polite to avoid prayer times and to ask whether visitors are welcome before walking in. Take particular care over customs during Ramadan.

What about Hawassa and the lowlands?

Head south and you drop in altitude, and the air warms up. Hawassa, on its lake, is at about 1,700 m, well below Addis, so it feels noticeably warmer, and lower-lying areas further out are hot. Lighter, breathable fabrics are the answer, but keep them long and loose rather than switching to shorts and vests. We drive to Hawassa regularly, so if you are going south with us, pack a lighter set of clothes alongside your Addis layers.

Long sleeves and trousers at dusk also help with mosquitoes. Malaria risk is high below 2,000 m, and some guidance includes areas up to 2,500 m, which takes in Addis. Ask a travel clinic, take repellent if you go lower than the capital, and read our vaccines article before you travel.

What should you pack for Ethiopia?

• Two or three pairs of long trousers or long skirts (one lightweight for warmer, lower places).
• T-shirts or shirts with sleeves, plus one smarter top for restaurants or church.
• A fleece or warm jumper and a light jacket for Addis evenings.
• A waterproof jacket from June to September.
• A scarf or shawl (useful for women at churches and mosques, and for sun and dust).
• Slip-on shoes or sandals for church visits, and comfortable walking shoes.
• Sun hat, sunglasses and sunscreen, even in the highlands.
• Insect repellent if you are heading below the capital's altitude.

One last tip: if you plan to visit Entoto, on the hills above the city at over 3,000 m, bring an extra layer, as it is usually cooler up there. Crime against visitors has increased on Entoto, so go with company rather than walking alone; going by car with a driver who waits for you is the simplest way.