Is Ethiopia safe for white tourists? What foreign visitors should know

Yes. Visitors of every background travel around Ethiopia each year, and the everyday experience for a white, Asian or other visibly foreign traveller is warmth and curiosity, not hostility. Nothing in official travel advice says tourists are targeted because of their race. What you will notice is attention: people greet you, children wave and call out, and some sellers quote you a higher price. This guide explains what that looks like and how to keep your trip easy.

Ethiopia rewards the visit. It has its own alphabet, its own calendar, ancient churches and monasteries, and coffee served with ceremony in homes and cafés. Addis Ababa is a busy, ordinary capital where people go to work, meet friends and fill the churches on Sundays.

Are foreigners targeted because of their race?

No. Official advice does not describe any pattern of violence against tourists because of their skin colour, and it notes that foreigners have not been targeted in the recent unrest, although anyone can get caught up in events. The crime that does affect visitors is the kind you find in any big city: pickpocketing, bag and phone snatching, and the odd scam. Standing out makes you a more obvious choice for a pickpocket, so a few simple habits matter more here than in places where you blend in.

What does "ferenji" mean, and should you mind it?

Ferenji (also spelled faranji or ferenj) is the everyday Amharic word for a foreigner, used most often for Europeans and white people. It is a description, not an insult. You will hear it from children on the street, from a market seller pointing you out to a friend, or in a friendly "Hello, ferenji!" Most of the time it comes with a smile.

Visitors of any non-Ethiopian background may hear it. A wave and a smile is the usual reply. If attention ever turns into someone following you, walk into a shop or café, or say "Tew" (stop it, to a man) or "Tay" (to a woman).

What everyday issues do visitors who stand out run into?

Attention and friendly crowds

In quieter towns and the countryside, a foreigner can draw a small crowd of curious children and young men. Addis Ababa is used to visitors, so it is calmer there. Most of this is simple curiosity, and a friendly greeting goes a long way.

Children asking for money or pens

Children may ask for money, sweets or a pen. It is kinder not to hand things out on the street: it encourages children to beg instead of going to school, and many local parents dislike it. If you want to help, give to a school or a registered charity. A polite way to say no to adults who ask is "Egziabher yistelegn" (may God provide for you).

"Foreigner prices"

Expect some sellers, street taxis and small hotels to start higher for foreigners. Ask the price before you buy or get in, bargain gently in markets, and keep small birr notes so you aren't waiting for change. Our guide to whether Ethiopia is expensive for tourists explains what things usually cost.

Pickpockets in crowded places

Pickpockets work in crowded spots such as Merkato market, Piassa, minibus stands and around the airport. The usual trick is a distraction: a bump, a tray of gum held in front of you, someone spitting on your shoe and offering to wipe it, while a partner reaches for your phone. Keep your bag in front, your phone out of sight in the street, and carry only the day's cash. Our article on whether Addis Ababa is safe for tourists covers the city in more detail.

How can a driver make the trip easier?

Most of the hassle above happens on foot and in street taxis. With a private car, our driver stays with you for the day, drops you at each door and waits outside. That means no flagging taxis, no haggling over fares and no walking dark streets. Our drivers know local prices and help you avoid the common scams and overcharging. A driver by the day around Addis starts from $75 for up to about 10 hours, and a Bole airport pickup from $30 per car; we confirm the exact price in your quote. See a driver by the day in Addis and our Bole airport pickup.

For trips outside the city, such as Bishoftu or Hawassa, we check road conditions with our drivers across the country before you leave, and we plan the route and the departure time together with you. Our guide to whether it is safe to travel by road in Ethiopia explains how we decide.

Is Ethiopia safe for women travelling alone?

Many women travel in Ethiopia alone without problems, but harassment and unwanted comments do happen, and a foreign woman on her own draws more of them. Simple things help: dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), sit in the back of cars, don't walk alone at night, and keep a firm, polite "no" ready. Accept drinks only when they are sealed or poured in front of you. Don't be surprised if some men address questions to a man you are with; it is usually meant as politeness.

Is Ethiopia safe for LGBT travellers?

Same-sex sexual acts are illegal in Ethiopia for both men and women and can be punished with prison sentences of several years. There are reports of harassment and arrests, including of hotel and bar owners and their guests. Public displays of affection are uncommon for anyone here, and LGBT travellers are advised to be very discreet and to weigh the risks before travelling.

What should you wear at churches and mosques?

Ethiopians dress conservatively, especially at religious sites. At an Orthodox church, cover your shoulders and legs, take off your shoes and hat before going in, and women are appreciated wearing a scarf. Ask before photographing priests or worshippers, and never use flash on church paintings. At mosques, dress just as modestly and follow what you are asked at the entrance. During Ramadan, be discreet about eating, drinking and smoking in public. Avoid camouflage clothing anywhere in the country.

What are the most useful practical tips?

• Carry a paper copy of your passport photo page and visa; checkpoints are routine.
• Leave spare cards and valuables in the hotel safe.
• Use a known driver, hotel car or ride app after dark rather than street taxis.
• Agree prices before any service, from shoe shines to taxis.
• Stay alert in big crowds at religious festivals and major events.
• Sign up for your embassy's alerts and check the news while you travel.
• Learn "selam" (hello) and "ameseginalehu" (thank you); they open doors everywhere.